Ogunquit Playhouse’s ‘Waitress’ is Love At First Taste

Cast of ‘Waitress’ at Ogunquit Playhouse. Photos: Nile Scott Studios

‘Waitress’ – Book by Jessie Nelson. Music and lyrics by Sara Bareilles. Based on the motion picture by Adrienne Shelly. Direction by Abbey O’Brien. Choreography by Cost n’ Mayor. Music supervision by Ryan Cantwell. Music directed by Leigh Delano. Original scenic design by Scott Pask. Lighting design by Richard Latta. Original costume design by Suttirat Anne Larlarb. Sound design by Kevin Heard. Wig design by Roxanne De Luna. At Ogunquit Playhouse, 10 Main Street, Ogunquit, Maine, through June 8, 2024.

By Linda Chin

                                                                                                                                              

Whether you’ve seen the original movie version starring Keri Russell, the musical’s world premiere at the American Repertory Theater in Cambridge, Broadway transfer, and/or national tour – or aren’t yet familiar with this story – Ogunquit Playhouse’s production of Waitress, deftly directed by Abbey O’Brien and choreographed by Cost n’ Mayor, is a smart choice from the current menu of New England theater offerings.

From the moment the cheery giant lattice-crusted cherry pie on the proscenium curtain that greeted the audience from the get-go started to rise, revealing a lovely rural landscape – a broad expanse of open sky, wooden posts with long stretches of electrical cables on the backdrop, a roadside diner chock-full of local folks (original scenic design by Scott Pask, lighting by Richard Latta), the audience’s anticipation continued to rise as well. After realizing that the six-piece combo (Leigh Delano, music director, conductor, and keyboards) would be performing onstage and seeing the colorful neon “Joe’s Pie Diner” sign slowly descend from the rafters, I was smitten.

Waitress centers on the story of Jenna Hunterson (Desi Oakley), a waitress at Joe’s and the diner’s genius pie-maker, who feels trapped in a dead-end job, small-town life, and her unhappy marriage to Earl (Matt DeAngelis), who was her high school sweetheart. Her co-workers Becky – who’s both sweet and savory (Maiesha McQueen), and Dawn – who’s both sweet and flaky (Gizel Jiménez), are her best friends and confidantes. The trio of waitresses add warmth and wit to the workplace, chatting with the customers (who are mostly regulars), taking care of communicating the orders to the cocky head chef Cal (Jimmy Ray Bennett), and taking turns tending to the needs of the diner’s curmudgeonly and crusty owner Joe (Clevant Derricks).

Jenna, Becky, and Dawn also take care of each other as they navigate their work, home, and love lives (which often overlap in a small-town environment). Becky is married to a man who is bedridden, and she has grown weary of changing his diapers (and misses their sex life). Dawn is searching on dating sites for the perfect match to her profile, which includes multiple credits as a Betsy Ross re-enactor. Jenna’s husband Earl is controlling and abusive. In their song “The Negative,” Becky and Dawn support Jenna while she takes a home pregnancy test (after a drunken romp with Earl that she regrets) and maintain a positive outlook while waiting for the result. “When He Sees Me” is a breakout number for Dawn and the company, and Becky’s solo ballad “I Didn’t Plan It” opens Act II on a poignant note that makes one reflect on fidelity, forgiveness, and friendship.

Jenna dreams up a new pie to make each morning that will be featured as the ‘Special’ on the menu board. Inspired by pleasant memories of baking with her mom as a child or reflective of her current mood and/or real-life situations as an adult. Jenna whips up these “pies de resistance” with clever names like Marshmallow Mermaid Pie, Lost Shepherd’s Pie, and Berry the Bullshit! Pie, that are so enticing that some customers (like Joe) go daily just for the special slice. Jenna consistently gets feedback that her pies are tempting. When Jenna goes for a checkup with her female doctor – with a pie in tow, she’s disappointed that not only is there a new ob/gyn in town, Dr. Pomatter (Ben Jacoby), but he’s a man and has supposedly sworn off sugar. After she leaves, he wolfs it down and declares it “biblically good.”

For getting into the creative zone, Jenna’s mantra is sugar, butter, flour – three pie-making essentials. These words are repeated throughout the performance and are the opening lyrics for “What’s Inside.” The song not only refers to what Jenna puts inside a pie but reveals her character’s deep inner life. Desi Oakley owns the role of Jenna, and not only does she have exceptional acting skills and the ability to tell the story convincingly with just her facial expressions, but her voice is as sweet as sugar, smooth as butter, and silky as flour. Jenna and Company’s performance of this opening number is so mesmerizingly beautiful and hauntingly intimate that it prompted my descriptor “Love at First Taste.”

In terms of the production quality, the set, lighting, costumes, and sound were well-executed, and the principal’s and ensemble’s pop/rock voices and comedic timing were terrific. If you’re expecting Waitress to be a family-friendly musical about an old-fashioned pie-baking competition with a deep and multilayered storyline, you may be disappointed. The storyline is pretty predictable and most of the male characters, as written, are sexists/guy’s guys (the authors are more forgiving of the female characters’ flaws). The exceptions are Dawn’s nice and nerdy new boyfriend, Ogie (triple threat Kennedy Kanagawa), who brings the house down in ‘Never Ever Getting Rid of Me” and  “I Love You Like a Table,” and Joe, who demonstrates that he is a softy under his gruff exterior (and still has the moves) in “Take It From An Old Man.” The fun and funny moments in the book, light-hearted music and lyrics, and physical acting and dance numbers created by the director and choreographer balance more serious matters – domestic violence, poverty/unemployment, extramarital affairs, unwanted pregnancy (the “I Don’t Want Earl’s Baby Pie” in the movie is not included in the musical), but with profanity and some racy numbers this a show written for mature audiences (and not recommended for children) – which is disappointing because the musical includes the role of a little girl named Lulu, who will likely not be seen by others her age, and is a total cutie-pie. For tickets and information, go to: http://www.ogunquitplayhouse.org/2024-waitress

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